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The very first thing I had to figure out (or guess at) is the length of the major body tube in the original kit. The kit mentions the use of a BT-55 Estes tube, which according to all of my resources is 18" long. Another Grey area was the length of the nose cone, which in retrospect, I under-estimated, and from this I can get a full length. Then I subtract the length of the nose cone I am going to use, and I have the length for my body tube. I came up with 10", but like I said, I think that's a little on the short side. If the nose cones were of proportionate size, my main body tube should have been about 13.5" long, rather than 10". So call it a bad scale of a bad scale. It kinda looks like it.
I had measurements for the fins, thanks to Jim Z's pdf instruction sheet, and the scan of the fins (along with the helpful ruler) contained therein. All I had to do was draw that size (which I did in AutoCAD) and scale it down to match my BT-50 body tube (about 73%) and presto! The markings on this rocket is one of the things that draws me toward it (notice how Certs is painted?) because it is clearly visible, and you can tell which direction it is pointing from a far distance, which helps with analizing the flight profile.
After I had everything gathered, it was really a very simple rocket to construct, and I had most of it done in about a night. Again, using AutoCAD, I made the typical Estes wrap to mark the body tubes with where the fins should be, and how far apart they need to be spaced. Once I discovered how to do this, it became really easy to use this technique for nearly every rocket that I have, including my HPR stuff. It is pretty reliable, and there are cues on the printed sheet that you can use to ensure alignment, and that the wrap is the proper length, which allows you to get proper spacing of all of the fins. It is critical, I should mention, that you mark only in one place, and do so all the way around the body tube (all of your marks, not a ring) and then extend those lines, rather than try to use the width of your wrap to ensure that the lines are straight. I actually bought a piece of Angled Aluminum for this purpose, and it's really easy to use (plus, your wife/mother doesn't get upset with you for leaving pencil marks on the door-jambs) because you simply fit the tube in the open angle, and align a mark, and use your pencil to extend that mark as far as you need to. Rotate your tube, and repeat. With all 9 lines drawn, and all 8 fins cut, I started gluing at the bottom, and I followed the Estes instructions nearly verbatim (I scaled all measurements, of course) and before I knew it, the rocket was complete.
Just like with all of my rockets, I wanted to make sure that this one had enough shock cord, so I did use quite a bit more than Estes would have suggested, but not so much that I don't have room for a parachute. The shock cord is about 5 times as long as the rocket in this case (not stretched) and is made of the nylon elastic from Joann's Craft Stores. I used the same mounting technique that Estes has for years, and I don't think it will have any problems staying attached.
For painting, I did it just like the Estes kit, scaling the measurement to the red/black seam accordingly. I sanded everything smooth, and started with a white base coat (no primer) and then painted nearly the whole thing red, then the black. I did spray a clear coat, but there was no sanding after the first coat of paint. It's quick, and dirty, and easy, and cheap, but hey, it works for the small stuff. Now it's finished. I did not bother with decals, as I am having a bit of trouble finding a good vendor for stickers with wite pigment. It's not impossible to find, but I didn't want to spend the money on this one, it's completely disposable unless it contains a reload casing. But still, it's a cool little rocket that should do 1000' or so on a C6-7, and nearly 2000' on an Aerotech Reload. We'll see.
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